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Buggsy Wildlife Guide (Read This Before Anything Else)

Covers Raccoons, Skunks, Opossums, Bats, Squirrels, Chipmunks, Moles, Voles, Groundhogs, Pigeons, Starlings, and Garter Snakes.

The honest headline: wildlife is not a spray-and-bait category. There is no insecticide for a raccoon. Wildlife work is trapping, one-way doors, exclusion carpentry, and law — and most of it is rated Pro Recommended or Pro Required for reasons on this page.


Part 1: Why Buggsy doesn't sell you wildlife products

  1. It's regulated. Most states (Kentucky included) restrict trapping, relocating, and even handling many wildlife species. Relocated raccoons mostly die, and moving rabies-vector species is illegal many places.
  2. Poison is off the table. There are no legal rodenticides for squirrels, and poisoning anything a hawk or the neighbor's cat might eat creates secondary poisoning. Anyone selling you "squirrel bait" is selling you a crime.
  3. The animal is the symptom; the hole is the problem. Every attic animal entered through a gap. Remove the animal without fixing the gap and you've booked a return visit.

Part 2: What you CAN safely do yourself

  • Make your property boring: sealed trash cans (clip-lock lids), pet food in at night, bird feeders down during a conflict (feeders fund raccoons, squirrels, and the rats under them), fallen fruit picked up, brush piles cleared.
  • Harassment for den-shy species: a radio, bright light, and ammonia-soaked rags near a den (NOT during baby season — see below) often convince skunks/raccoons to move on.
  • Chimney caps, vent covers, door sweeps on outbuildings — the best wildlife control is sold at the hardware store.
  • Garter snakes: harmless, eat pests, and "control" is habitat — mow, clear board/rock piles, fix the rodent problem they're hunting. Please don't kill them.
  • Voles: habitat modification (mow close, pull mulch off trunks, gravel collars around plantings) beats everything else homeowners try.
  • Moles: they eat grubs and worms, not plants. Tolerance or professional trapping — the folk remedies (gum, sonic spikes, windmills) reliably fail.

Part 3: The hard rules (safety + law)

  • Baby season (spring–early summer): never seal an entry or evict a den animal unless you're certain no young are inside. Sealed-in babies die in your wall — the worst outcome for everyone.
  • Bats are the brightest line in pest control: protected species, legally-defined exclusion seasons, and rabies protocol. ANY possible sleeping-room bat contact = call your doctor AND public health — bites can be undetectable. Never handle a bat barehanded. Bat work is Pro Required, no exceptions.
  • Raccoons/skunks are rabies-vector species — daytime staggering or fearless behavior means call animal control, not approach.
  • Skunk spray range is ~10 feet. Plan accordingly.
  • Histoplasmosis: big droppings accumulations (bats, pigeons, starlings) are a respiratory hazard — professional cleanup with respirators, not a shop vac.

Part 4: What a good wildlife pro does (so you can judge quotes)

Full inspection → humane removal or one-way door eviction → exclusion repair with animal-proof materials → droppings remediation → guarantee on the sealed entry points. If a quote is only "we'll set a trap," keep shopping. Buggsy's find-a-pro can route you to companies that do it right.

Part 5: When Buggsy says call a pro

Animal in the attic/chimney/wall, any bat situation, rabies-vector behavior, bird colonies on the structure, digging under slabs/decks (groundhogs), or anything involving young. Which is to say: most of this category. That's not upselling — it's the honest map of where DIY ends.

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