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Buggsy Master Termite & Wood-Borer Guide

Covers Eastern Subterranean and Formosan termites, Drywood and Dampwood termites, Powderpost Beetles, and Old House Borers.

Straight talk first: every pest in this guide is rated Pro Required or close to it. This guide exists so you understand what you're looking at, what a pro should be doing, and what limited DIY steps actually help — not to talk you into treating structural wood-destroyers alone. This is the category where failed DIY costs tens of thousands.


Part 1: Know what you're looking at

SignLikely culprit
Mud tubes on foundation/piersSubterranean termites
Winged swarmers indoors (spring), shed wings on sillsSubterranean termites — an interior colony
Pinholes + talcum-fine powder from hardwood floors/furniturePowderpost beetles
Ridged "sand grain" pellets (frass) below kick-out holesDrywood termites
Larger oval exit holes in structural softwood, rasping soundOld house borer
Damaged wood near chronic leaksDampwood termites (fix the water)

Termite swarmer vs. flying ant: termites have straight antennae, equal-length wings, thick waist. Ants: elbowed antennae, unequal wings, pinched waist. This ID alone is worth the whole guide.

Part 2: Subterranean & Formosan termites

What the pro job looks like (so you can judge quotes): a full inspection, then either a liquid soil treatment (trench-and-treat with a non-repellent like fipronil), a bait system maintained around the structure, or both. Formosan colonies are massive and aggressive — nobody reputable will suggest spot-treating them.

Legitimate DIY layer (prevention + monitoring, not cure):

  1. Trelona ATBS stations around the structure per label spacing — as an early-warning and interception system on a house that isn't actively infested, and a serious component when professionally maintained.
  2. Taurus SC for label-permitted spot/perimeter applications — understand this is NOT equivalent to a full trench treatment of an active infestation.
  3. Kill conducive conditions: wood-to-soil contact, mulch piled on the foundation, moisture at the slab edge, stored lumber under the crawl space. This is free and genuinely matters.

Active infestation = pro. Not "pro recommended." Pro.

Part 3: Drywood & Dampwood termites

  • Drywood colonies live entirely inside the wood, no soil contact. Whole-structure fumigation or professional localized treatment are the real fixes. DIY layer: Nibor-D borate treatment on exposed, accessible, unfinished wood protects it going forward — it does not reach colonies deep in finished lumber.
  • Dampwood termites are a moisture alarm with insects attached: fix the leak/drainage, replace saturated wood, and they lose their habitat. Borate-treat the replacement wood.

Part 4: Powderpost beetles & Old House Borers

  1. Confirm activity before spending: fresh powder is pale and loose; old holes with no powder are often historic. Vacuum the powder, mark holes with tape, re-check in 2–4 weeks.
  2. Nibor-D on bare wood: borates penetrate unfinished wood and stop re-infestation — the right call for joists, subfloors, and barn wood. Finished/sealed wood can't absorb borates; that's a pro conversation.
  3. Moisture control: larvae need wood moisture — a dry crawl space (vapor barrier, ventilation) is hostile territory.
  4. Structural members with active borers = pro + possibly an engineer.

Part 5: Product list (professional grade only)

ProductRole
Trelona ATBSMonitoring/bait stations around the structure
Taurus SCLabel-permitted perimeter/spot applications
Nibor-DBorate protection for exposed/accessible wood

Part 6: Safety & judgment

  • Label is the law — termiticide labels are long for a reason.
  • Never break open mud tubes or disturb active galleries before an inspection — you scatter the evidence a pro needs.
  • Get 2–3 quotes on termite work; ask each company whether they recommend liquid, bait, or both, and why. Reputable companies explain; fear-sellers pressure.

Part 7: When Buggsy says call a pro

All of them. Mud tubes, swarmers, frass piles, fresh powder from structural wood — book the inspection. The DIY layers above are prevention and protection, and honest guidance means saying so.

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